Huntsham Bouldering Guide [Wye Valley]
Page updated - May 2023
Climbing is officially banned at Huntsham. Please follow these handful of respectful actions (updated May 2023), in order not to really get the landowners back up:
- Please do not use chalk here. Or at least clean it up or use clear chalk (METOLIOUS ECO CHALK)
- Please do not use loudspeakers
- Keep the noise down, noise will draw attention from the landowners
- Do not take your dogs here
- The area is habitat for many rare species of plants, re-wilding is going on here. Careful where you stand please!
- Take home at least 1 bit of litter
- Do not park in the bus turn circle! Many tourists do but we know better :) It is actually used quite a lot as an 'escape' for large vehicles, prior to the VERY narrow lane further up the road.
Rough sketch Bouldering Map for Huntsham [free to download]
There are public footpaths at the base or near to a handful of the boulders (Sugar lump boulder for example and Rainy Day Buttress). As for the boulders and crags off piste, if anyone does show interest in you, then use due diligence. Please don't spoil it for everybody as you can always climb another day. Personally I have never had any problems there. I try to use the karma theory, pick up litter and respect the place.
That said, Huntsham is one of the best boulder locations in the Wye Valley and Forest of Dean for pure burley, sometimes sandbagged (feels like but probably not!) bouldering. I get the impression it's a bit Marmite but I love it. The Rift boulder, Sliced slug and Satellite Boulders will provide you with months of bouldering fun. Probably years in most cases!
There are various sectors at Huntsham, the ones I have covered here are:
- Rift & Bread Pudding Boulders
- Sliced Slug Boulder
- 'The Boulders'
- Satellite Boulder
- Rainy Day Buttress
Some of my favourite problems at Huntsham, range from 3 star to pretty esoteric but to name a few: Bread Pudding f6A / V2, Bowl Rim f6A / V2, Lick the Bowl/Cream f6C/+ / V5, Aimes Low/High f7A+ / V7, Mind of a Squirrel f6A / V2 [see video below].
For the full list of problems (not exhaustive):