Rainy Day Bouldering Circuit [Forest of Dean & Wye Valley]

Here is a list of the crags you can climb when it rains in the Forest of Dean and Wye Valley. Yes, while it is actually raining!

Boulder Circuits are split up in different categories for heavy rain or light showers, quick drying and roped climbing crags to climb when it's been raining.

Disclaimer * Climbing on sanstone when it is still damp can and will break the rock. It's amazing how soft it is when damp. Please use due diligence when climbing in or after rain. Personally when it is humid or after a light shower, I will climb at the overhanging boulders only and try to stick to round aretes and holds (edges and crimps can snap easily). Be careful with that footwork on small holds.

'It's pissing it down now/or it has been raining hard for a few days'

#1 - Biblins Cave - Symonds Yat

Some very hard bouldering to be found here on limestone. Many in the 7s and 8s. A trendy and popular spot.

#2 - Rainy Day Buttress - Huntsham

note: banned area. A selection of low level bouldering f5 to f6B+ and high grade adventurous trad climbing, E6-E8. Chossy rock and marmite climbing but an easy walk in and a cool spot to hang out.

Rainy Day Buttress - Huntsham. Left problem is 'Pick Pocket f5+', right problem is 'A Boulder for a Rainy Day f6A and extension at f6B+

#3 - Forest Climbing Limited Indoor Wall

Forest Climbing Limited - Cinderfords indoor Bouldering Wall

Naturally if it is that bad weather wise why not just boulder inside! Forest Climbing is based in Cinderford and a review can be found here.

'We've just had a rain Shower'

After a rain shower or overnight rain, it is possible to boulder and climb at the following Wye Valley and Forest of Dean locations.

#1 - Wyndcliff

Wyndcliff Quarry Sport Climbing - Route pictured is the abseil bolts for the Big 60 and Oubliette F6a, top tier far left

A great and easily accessable sport climbing (mainly but does have trad) crag between Tintern and Chepstow in the Wye Valley. You have to experience it to believe, it is sheltered due to its South Facing location and also flash dries. Many low to mid range sport climbs here, F3 to F7b, single pitch climbing. The driest area will be the upper tier, I've even belayed in the rain (multiple times) while climber is dry. This crag is a good bet in Summer or Winter. A rainy day climbing gem!

#2 - 3 Rocks [Big Little World or Perfect Block]

3 Rocks Bouldering in The Forest of Dean. 'Big Little World' f6B+

'The Fontainebleau of the Forest' for the low grade boulderer. Situated in a very quiet part of the Forest of Dean, 3 rocks is continuously being developed and new problems arising. Problems from f3 to f7B. The driest areas will be: 'Big Little World', 'The Perfect Block', 'Honey Boulder' and 'The Green Man Boulder', possible 'Covidiots'. Best to stick to rounded arete climbs and large holds after rain as it's sandstone but a lot of the boulders should be sheltered in summer, Winter not so much.

#4 - Ban y Gor

The overhanging walls near and including Nelson Mandela F7b will be dry, although i can't vouch for clipping the chains! Probably more of a summer rainy destination, as through Winter a lot of lines seep. Lots of mid grade stuff here and often feel stiff for the grade!

#6 - Woodcroft/Wintors Leap

The Woodcroft area should dry quickly after rain, especially some of the shorter routes to the right hand side. Sport climbing from F4 to F7b.